Reales Atarazanas

Huge 15th-century church on the site of the former great mosque; richly decorated with the central nave rising to 37 m. An ornate canopy and statue marks the final resting place of Christopher Columbus. If there's a queue for tickets then go to the nearby Church of Salvador (Iglesia del Salvador) and buy a combi ticket. Cathedral admission includes La Giralda, the minaret that is now the magnificent bell tower. Within, you ascend 34 ramps - no need to keep count as they're tallied on the wall - then a last short flight of steps brings you onto the viewing terrace. Church of Salvador: all of its Rocco altarpieces were cleaned and excavations revealed remains from an Islamic mosque and earlier Christian churches, now accessible in the crypt. Unless you like massive cathedrals, the effect is much more impressive.

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