Despite the name, the French influence on Arras's set menu is not overly pronounced. Instead, focus is on unloved ingredients that most chefs stay away from: offal, Brussels sprouts, eel; this could be a recipe for disaster, but somehow it works. The dishes are refined and flavoursome, and the service knowledgeable and personable. They save the best to last, in the form of a bumper British cheese board introduced by chef himself.
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