Remarkable series of frescoed cave churches and fairy chimneys along a loop trail (see diagram). Try to slot in between the tour groups, it's no fun sharing a tiny church with 20 overfed visitors following a green parasol. It's worth the extra to see Karanlık Kilise, the Dark Church - originally this had no windows, and the darkness preserved the frescoes. It takes 2-3 hours to get round the site, then hold onto your ticket, as 50 m outside the main compound is Tokalı Kilise, "Buckle Church". This has a 10th and an 11th century portion, both richly frescoed.
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